Night, Saturday 31 December, New Years Eve, Nyaung U.
When Burmese invite guests to their house to heat, the guest eats alone and the remainder is eaten after by the family (the large extended family) – this ensures that the guest eats enough. My Burmese hosts cannot afford to eat much curry so they eat a lot of rice with just a little curry for taste (This was information sourced from Mr Wintun @ Weatherspoons).
The remainder of the food at Mar Mar San’s would be shared by 7 adults and 2 kids.
Burmese hospitality is generous to a fault, but it is their way.
[The family sat quietly watching the television whilst I ate alone. Mar Mar San would tend to my needs with stewed chicken and curried vegetables. There was too much food served for me, but not enough for 3. And there were more waiting their turn to eat. Awkwardly, I withdrew from my meal, unsure of what gratitudes were expected for hospitality such as this. I took my bicycle and MMS walked with me down the dusty track, back to the road to Nyuang U. Walking away at a harried pace, shame spurned my departure, set off-balance, unsure of the protocols that I imaged must come with such welcomes and farewells. And with that I rode back on the dark roads from Old Bagan back to the place where my bicycle was hired. Then suffering the strangeness of the new years eve, I wanted to spend the last hours in Nyaung U at a favourite place, Weatherspoons. ]
I was not invited to the tourist table congregating for NYE. Frankly, a little hurt, but glad not to endure bland conversation til ears bled. Still, not as bad as the Australian crew @ Xmas eve.
Spending NYE writing this story.
Spending NYD on 12 hour hell-bus to Inle Lake. 5 am lift off.